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Plywood subfloor won't screw down in a trailer home


How do I remake my floor using hardwood such that it will not squeak at all?What is a proper high-quality sub-floor preparation for porcelain tile floor installationHow to level bathroom plywood subfloor before tiling?Help please!!! Screw won't loosen?Little bumps appearing where the staple went in for the 1/2" manufactured hardwood floorTiling over 1/2in subfloor with 1/2in HardiebackerHow to level depressed region in plywood subfloor for laminate?Is 1/2 inch plywood over 3/4 inch subfloor adequate for 12x24 ceramic tile?Self-leveling compound and underlaymentIs 15/32" Plywood okay for Subfloor under tile?













2















I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










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  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    4 hours ago















2















I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    4 hours ago













2












2








2








I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.










share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile.



My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples.



I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink.







flooring tile screws






share|improve this question









New contributor




ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









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ERIC Mulac is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 43 mins ago









mike65535

9251520




9251520






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asked 5 hours ago









ERIC MulacERIC Mulac

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111




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  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    4 hours ago

















  • What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

    – JPhi1618
    4 hours ago
















What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

– JPhi1618
4 hours ago





What screws are you using? I forgot to consider that you could just be using the wrong screw.

– JPhi1618
4 hours ago










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















5














When you say "bite down" do you mean:



  1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

  2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



Hope this helps!






share|improve this answer










New contributor




brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

    – JPhi1618
    3 hours ago



















2














The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



Subfloor screw



Example of backer board screws



If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






share|improve this answer
































    2














    Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



    enter image description here






    share|improve this answer






















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      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes








      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      5














      When you say "bite down" do you mean:



      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.




















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        3 hours ago
















      5














      When you say "bite down" do you mean:



      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.




















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        3 hours ago














      5












      5








      5







      When you say "bite down" do you mean:



      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.










      When you say "bite down" do you mean:



      1. It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or

      2. It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood?

      If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI).



      If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long.



      I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? Similar to enter image description here found here Home Depot link to the example picture



      Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep.



      Hope this helps!







      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 3 hours ago





















      New contributor




      brehma is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      answered 3 hours ago









      brehmabrehma

      513




      513




      New contributor




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      New contributor





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      Check out our Code of Conduct.












      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        3 hours ago


















      • Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

        – JPhi1618
        3 hours ago

















      Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

      – JPhi1618
      3 hours ago






      Good point on priming the backer board. The tile floor companies typically make primers recommended for adhesive tiles. I know Armstrong does. Plywood or cement board that would be a good idea. Welcome to the site!

      – JPhi1618
      3 hours ago














      2














      The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



      Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



      Subfloor screw



      Example of backer board screws



      If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






      share|improve this answer





























        2














        The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



        Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



        Subfloor screw



        Example of backer board screws



        If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






        share|improve this answer



























          2












          2








          2







          The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



          Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



          Subfloor screw



          Example of backer board screws



          If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.






          share|improve this answer















          The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home.



          Screws are the right thing to use. Stapes or nails would pull out. There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads.



          Subfloor screw



          Example of backer board screws



          If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface.







          share|improve this answer














          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer








          edited 4 hours ago

























          answered 4 hours ago









          JPhi1618JPhi1618

          9,33812144




          9,33812144





















              2














              Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



              enter image description here






              share|improve this answer



























                2














                Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



                enter image description here






                share|improve this answer

























                  2












                  2








                  2







                  Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



                  enter image description here






                  share|improve this answer













                  Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most. They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily.



                  enter image description here







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 3 hours ago









                  Jerry_ContraryJerry_Contrary

                  2,508318




                  2,508318




















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