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How to unfasten electrical subpanel attached with ramset



The Next CEO of Stack OverflowTips for removing drywall from bottom of closet headerWhat type of wire for subpanel in attached garage?Am I likely to be able to run a circuit from this panel for an EV charger?Basement leak behind electrical panelelectrical service to a shipping container workshopSafest way of temporarily working with a failed 4-wire outbuilding subpanel (one missing hot leg, neutral bonded ground on both ends)?What are good uses for tandem (double-stuff) breakers?no ground bar in electrical subpanelElectrical design for a house with an ADU, solar, and backup generatorTemporarily relocating an electrical panel while rebuilding a room










3















I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.










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    3















    I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.










    share|improve this question









    New contributor




    Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.






















      3












      3








      3








      I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.










      share|improve this question









      New contributor




      Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.












      I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated.







      electrical-panel fastener metal-cutting






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      Cropduster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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      edited 1 hour ago









      isherwood

      50.9k460129




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      asked 2 hours ago









      CropdusterCropduster

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      1161




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          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

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          2














          Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.



          Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.



          Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.



          Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.






          share|improve this answer


















          • 2





            A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

            – Ed Beal
            1 hour ago











          • You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

            – isherwood
            20 mins ago



















          1














          You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.






          share|improve this answer























          • I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

            – isherwood
            21 mins ago











          • Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

            – Joe Fala
            7 mins ago











          Your Answer








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          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes








          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes









          active

          oldest

          votes






          active

          oldest

          votes









          2














          Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.



          Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.



          Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.



          Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.






          share|improve this answer


















          • 2





            A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

            – Ed Beal
            1 hour ago











          • You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

            – isherwood
            20 mins ago
















          2














          Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.



          Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.



          Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.



          Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.






          share|improve this answer


















          • 2





            A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

            – Ed Beal
            1 hour ago











          • You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

            – isherwood
            20 mins ago














          2












          2








          2







          Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.



          Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.



          Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.



          Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.






          share|improve this answer













          Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway.



          Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts.



          Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection.



          Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned. You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 1 hour ago









          isherwoodisherwood

          50.9k460129




          50.9k460129







          • 2





            A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

            – Ed Beal
            1 hour ago











          • You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

            – isherwood
            20 mins ago













          • 2





            A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

            – Ed Beal
            1 hour ago











          • You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

            – isherwood
            20 mins ago








          2




          2





          A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

          – Ed Beal
          1 hour ago





          A dremel with a cutoff wheel might be easier. Make sure to clean out all the metal filings prior to reenergising.

          – Ed Beal
          1 hour ago













          You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

          – isherwood
          20 mins ago






          You'd go through a good many cutoff wheels to get through those fat heads unless there's a gap underneath to get at the shaft. Still, not a bad idea, especially where space is tight.

          – isherwood
          20 mins ago














          1














          You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.






          share|improve this answer























          • I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

            – isherwood
            21 mins ago











          • Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

            – Joe Fala
            7 mins ago















          1














          You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.






          share|improve this answer























          • I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

            – isherwood
            21 mins ago











          • Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

            – Joe Fala
            7 mins ago













          1












          1








          1







          You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.






          share|improve this answer













          You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. Don't push too hard on the washer so it doesn't come free. If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. All will work just adding some options.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 30 mins ago









          Joe FalaJoe Fala

          4,925328




          4,925328












          • I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

            – isherwood
            21 mins ago











          • Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

            – Joe Fala
            7 mins ago

















          • I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

            – isherwood
            21 mins ago











          • Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

            – Joe Fala
            7 mins ago
















          I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

          – isherwood
          21 mins ago





          I like this idea, but I wasn't aware that hole saws were made so small. The only ones I've seen are diamond-dust, intended for tile.

          – isherwood
          21 mins ago













          Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

          – Joe Fala
          7 mins ago





          Most of the quality holesaw bit sets only go down to 3/4 because of the arbour. I've got some unknown brand junky ones that go smaller. But even a 3/4 bit would do the trick, it'll just be harder to start without a pilot bit.

          – Joe Fala
          7 mins ago










          Cropduster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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